On May, 11, 2012 we went to visit Afurada, a small fishing village located close to Foz do Douro. When the Douro River gets into the ocean, if you look to the ocean from the river, on your right hand side you will find “Foz Velha” (the neighborhood where we are staying at a rental apartment) and on the left hand side you will find Afurada.
The best way to visit Afurada is by boat. You get the boat on a small ramp located between Saint Angel Lighthouse (Farol de Santo Anjo) and Arrábida bridge (Ponte da Arrábida). Just ask the local people where to take the boat to cross the river to go to Afurada. (in Portuguese: “por favor aonde pego o barco para atravessar o rio e ir para Afurada”).
The boat cost 1€ and cross the river every 15 minutes. This means that at zero of the hour it will be at one side, at 15 it will be on the other side; at 30 on the first side again and so on.
So… if you “miss the boat” it will take half a hour for the boat to return to the margin where you are waiting.
The boat also carries bikes and the boat company charges 1€ for each bicycle. We had the bikes with us, as this is our preferred mode of transportation.
The crossing is quick and the views are nice, although the day was “fuzzy”.
We cycled along the river in the direction of the ocean, and asked directions for the pizzeria. I have a friend in Porto who told me there’s an excellent pizzeria at Afurada, but she also told me that she has never been there and didn’t know how it is called.
I asked directions to a young lady and she pointed the pizzeria and told us: “It is really very good there” . Wow… let’s go!!
Where to Eat:
Forneria São Pedro is not “good”. Forneria São Pedro is EXCELLENT!!! The place was crowded and we had to wait twenty minutes. The waiting was not so bad because we had a couple of excellent draft beers while we waited. 🙂
The restaurant is large and the decor, in contemporary style, is very interesting.
I highly recommend Forneria São Pedro if you want to go to a place that is not touristy, with an excellent service including the owner coming to out table to ask if we were enjoying ourselves.
The pizza is made in a wood oven. Don’t miss this place when you are visiting Porto, Portugal.
Forneria São Pedro: Best pizza in Portugal Address: Rua Doutor Eduardo de Matos, 84, Afurada, Vila Nova de Gaia.
After lunch we left the bikes locked in front of the restaurant and went for a walking along the ancient streets. We visited a tiny church and the ladies were kind enough to turn on all the lights inside, so we could appreciate it better. It is a lovely church that should not be missed when you are visiting Afurada.
We also saw the old castle (only from outside) and learned that the pace is now run by nuns.
An interesting spot to watch is where the washwomen (called “lavadeiras” in Portuguese) wash other people’s clothes. They wash is performed in a huge tank that can host several ladies simultaneously.When they finish washing they hang the pieces of cloth along the river and wait for them to be dry.
Before returning to the boat we biked along the river and loved it as there’s a dedicated bike route along the way.
We returned to the place where we would take the boat back to “Foz”. The boat has already departing but when the sailor man saw us, he returned, just to pick us up. This way, we were spared of waiting 30 minutes for the next boat! Very nice people in Portugal. As tourists, we had never found so gentle and cheerful people anywhere else!We love Portuguese hospitality!